Five Family Members, Two Italian Coasts—Here’s How They Navigated a Cross-Country Trip

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The centuries-sometime towns of southern Italian Republic take all the makings for an epic playground, from hidden seaside caves to winding hilltop streets. That’second what San Francisco–based photographer Seth Smoot as well as his wife, Kendra, an fine art manager together with stylist, found when they decided to indicate their ambit to the iconic expanse concluding October—in addition to bring their kids Stella, Imogen, as well as Truman along for the ride.

three kids on boat in Amalfi — The sculptural stone formations of Faraglioni, a speck of state off Capri, furnish the perfect pick out-your-own-chance.

“Their imaginations were running wild, pretending everything was a castle or a clandestine lair,” says Kendra. Starting in buzzy, tourist-favorite Positano, and then meandering across the kick to serene Puglia, the family unit of 5 essentially carve up their vacation into ii coastal adventures. “There are then many things to do in Positano, piece Puglia has a slower stride, together with it was easier to blend in as well as live like locals,” Seth explains. Each place may take a dissimilar vibe, only the Smoots’ daily outline remained the same, according to Kendra: “Our structure felt inspired past the Italian phrase dolce far niente—the sweet of idleness.”

iv Packing Essentials for Family Trips

Durable plastic shoes like Natives, Crocs, in addition to Smoot-approved Birkenstock EVAs help kids (and adults) ameliorate navigate rocky shorelines.
Bring a watercolor fix to share during the trip. “It’second fun to paint postcards to post dorsum to friends too family,” says Kendra.
A roomy, lightweight tote folds downward to nada, holds towels too tiffin for everyone, in addition to can be an extra bear-on on the way dorsum.
Make Airbnbs feel like habitation with palo santo sticks or a small-scale candle. (Bonus: A comforting odor works wonders come up bedtime.)

Where to Stay and What to Do inwards Amalfi

Marina Cacciapuoti, founder of locomote consultancy in addition to Italian lifestyle make Italy Segreta, shares her top spots on both coasts.

Positano's cliffside cityscape — “We chose to rest inward the northern department of Positano, inwards the expanse of Fornillo Beach, which is virtually 400 steps upward! Most of the homes open up out to the bounding main via terrace doors. It’second quite lovely,” says Kendra of the epic cliffside views.

Agricola Fore Porta

A beautiful enclave away from the crowds, where you tin hike through lemon groves and waterfalls, so savour a homemade repast exterior. Open mid-March through Nov. Via Paradiso, 22, Amalfi

Casa Privata

This rattling charming hideaway feels more than similar a fashionable individual abode than a luxury hotel (the discreet staff is available via WhatsApp). Via Rezzola, 41, Praiano

Don Alfonso 1890

In the sleepy town of Sant-Agata, high upward inwards the Amalfi hills, this boutique hotel also has a Michelin-starred eating place in addition to organic farm. Corso Sant’Agata, 11/thirteen, Sant’Agata Sui Due Golfi, Massa Lubrense

La Bottega di Brunella

You tin purchase lovely linen wear hither, all made in Italia, from material to finished product. Via Pasitea, 72, Positano

Conca del Sogno

This cliffside nook has been known every bit the country of the mermaids since ancient times in addition to is a goal for Lord’s Day lunch. Via Amerigo Vespucci, 25, Massa Lubrense

MAR Positano Villa Romana

The surface area’sec archaeological museum is housed inwards an ancient Roman villa alongside mosaic floors in addition to walls painted alongside brightly colored frescoes. Piazza Flavio Gioia, vii, Positano

rock formation on the Amalfi Coast — “It’second amazing to take in the thought of Positano from the body of water together with meet how these towns are literally built on cliffs alongside simply a road or two snaking through them,” says Kendra.

Pasticceria Pansa

The bakery’second sfogliatella Santa Rosa and delizia al limone are musts! Piazza Duomo, twoscore, Amalfi

Trattoria da Armandino

A local favorite, this family unit-run trattoria has around of the best seafood on the coast. Try the sardines too frittura mista. Via Marina di Praia, ane, Praiano

Where to Stay together with What to Do in Puglia

the beach in Polignano a Mare — Polignano a Mare, a 15-infinitesimal campaign N, may be rocky, only “the kids loved exploring all the tunnels,” says Seth.

Agriturismo Da Marta

There’s no bill of fare, simply y’all volition most probable be able to effort Marta’sec first-class melanzane ripiene as well as fried fiori di zucca. Via Orte, Otranto

Borgo Egnazia

Puglia has many beautiful places to remain, but alone one Borgo Egnazia, a magical village alongside flood bougainvillea, limestone interiors, olive groves, and two private beach clubs. Strada Comunale Egnazia, Savelletri, Fasano

Caffè Alvino

Head to this baker for pasticciotto (a typical baked practiced packed amongst custard) in addition to superb rustico (traditional pastry filled alongside tomato too mozzarella). Piazza Sant’Oronzo, xxx, Lecce

Caseficio Torre Sant’Emiliano

Puglia is known for its fantabulous cheeses, in addition to y’all can observe amazing ricotta hither. Litoranea Otranto, Porto Badisco

Cibus

The vibe at Cibus is laid-dorsum in addition to warm, as well as the must-lodge is spaghetti with cherry tomatoes as well as stracciatella, a local specialty. Via Chianche di Scarano, 7, Ceglie Messapica

side street in Monopoli, Italy — “It feels similar a walk dorsum inward time,” says Kendra of the town of Monopoli. “You’re surrounded past this incredible, timeless architecture. It’second so pretty; even the copper drainage pipes are cute!”

clams dish — Spaghetti alle vongole inwards the town of Fasano (where “nobody spoke English language and then nosotros ended upwards overordering—it was all phenomenal”), a stroll through the olive groves, together with a lazy afternoon circular of cards checked off the family’second Italian-way must-dos.

Farmacia Balboa

All the drinks are made amongst organic ingredients from nearby farms. And the place, overlooking the piazza, is the perfect backdrop for a postal service-beach aperitivo. Piazza Giuseppe Pisanelli, 24, Tricase

Lighthouse of Santa Maria di Leuca

Climb to the meridian—accessed via a 254-footstep staircase—to enjoy an extraordinary thought. On clear days y’all tin run across the Greek isle of Corfu. Via Francesco Pireca, five, Santa Maria di Leuca

glassware on blue-painted ground — “The flea market place in Ostuni, known equally the White City, was a place nosotros actually loved,” says Seth.

kids playing cards on blanket — “We institute a few treasures,” he adds—like a vintage pack of cards (something the family unit e’er has on manus when traveling) that volition come up along for the next trip.

Porto Badisco

Don’t young lady a trip to the port, where you lot tin can consume bounding main urchins direct from the fishermen’sec docked boats.

The Towns of Grottaglie and Lucugnano

Both are must-visits for ceramics lovers—lined alongside artisanal stores selling traditional handmade vases too plates whose designs (similar the flower-dotted patterns in addition to schizzato-splattered pigment technique) engagement back centuries.

How to Get Around, past Land or past Sea

Walking

Many ancient Italian towns come up alongside every bit ancient streets: steep, cobblestone, narrow—which is to enjoin, non real stroller-friendly. If you’re traveling amongst an babe or toddler, take a lightweight, easily foldable stroller (similar Babyzen Yoyo) for flatter terrain together with a sturdy carrier for hillier locales.

Boating

A difficult-side wood boat requires a captain or soul with a boating license, just anyone can commandeer an inflatable boat, which Seth did. Positano’second main pier has a number of boat companies. All rentals come up amongst the option of both kid- as well as adult-size life jackets together with price $500 to $600 a 24-hour interval.

Driving

Kendra and Seth’sec approach to road-tripping with 3 kids in the dorsum seat was to boundary machine rides to a maximum of 3 hours together with, whenever possible, bookend them amongst active time for a meliorate risk of inwards-transit napping. If your children are machine seat–historic period, lighten your charge as well as rent i in Italian Republic with your vehicle.

How Seth and Kendra Travel With Kids

Lose the Structure

“We’re rattling anti-itinerary,” says Kendra of their approach to holidays. They accept friends’ recommendations into business relationship, plan days loosely, together with never focus on beingness results-driven, and then “everything feels like a discovery.”

mother and child embracing in bathing suits — “There was a lot of piggybacks in addition to gelato bribery, only the kids did groovy alongside all the walking as well as step climbing that come up amongst around of these towns,” says Kendra.

Skip the Hotel

Beyond having access to a kitchen together with unopen bedrooms, an Airbnb or dwelling rental connects you lot to local hosts, who “ever take the best tips in addition to are excited to portion what makes their part and then special,” says Kendra.

Consider Shoulder Season

If exploring a new finish amongst your kids spell contending alongside throngs of tourists raises your stress level, avoid the summer months. In Italy, autumn sees sustained warm temperatures together with not as many people.

Go Solo

“Have lone time when traveling together,” says Kendra, “for sanity’s sake, only too to feel a home inwards a different manner than when you’re inward a large pack.” The duad alternates taking the strange solo outing.

This story was originally published in our Summer 2020 outcome amongst the headline “A Tale of Two Coasts.”

Lifestyle · April 21, 2024